Method of making force-lasted shoes with counter-stiffened quarters and full-length stitched-in sock linings



J. MELTZER 2,660,742 -LASTED SHOES WITH COUNTER-STIFFENED -LENGTHSTITCHED-IN SOCK LININGS 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Dec. l, 1953 METHOD oF MAKINGFORCE QUARTERS AND FULL Filed oct, 24, 1951 INVENTOR JACK MELTZER- 3o'BY2- y' iz,

Aime/Vey 2,660,742 -STIFFENED J. MELTZER Dec. 1, 1953 /CUNTER -IN/ SOCKLININGS METHOD OF MAKING FORCE-LASTED SHOES WITH QUARTERS ANDFULL-LENGTH STITCHED Filed Oct, 24, 1951 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. JACKMELTZER BY 7 ATTOEEY J. MELTZER Dec. l, 1953 METHOD OF' MAKINGFORCE-LASTED SHOES WITH COUNTER-STIFFENED QUARTERS AND FULL-LENGTHSTITCHED-IN SOCK LININGS Filed 001;, 24, 1951 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENToRJACK MELTZEQ 1:12@ BYd t Nro/zzn Dec. 1, 1953 ,J, MELTZER 2,660,742

METHOD OF MAKING FORCE-LASTEO SHOES WITH OOUNTER-STIFFENED QUARTERS ANDFULL-LENGTH STTTOHED-IN SOCK LININGS Filed oct, 24, 1951 4 Sheets-sheet4 INVENTOR. TACK MELTZEQ "YT-@2a. BVM

l 'TTOR 5)/ Patented Dec., 1953 UNITED STATES @AT ENT F FICE 1 Claim.

My present invention relates'generally toshoes, and has particularreference to articles of footwear in which a sock lining or itsequivalent is secured along its entire periphery to the lower edge of anupper.

Shoes and slippers of the .so-called slip-lasted variety areillustrative of the footwear for'which my invention is intended, butcertain features of the invention are also applicable to other types offootwear, such as soft sole slippers', meccasins, etc.

A more particular object of the invention lies in the provision of animproved procedure to be employed in manufacturing footwear of thecharacter referred to, whereby the advantages of' a stiff premolded heelcounter are attained in a shoe having a sock lining, or its equivalent,secured throughout its peripheral extent to the lower edge of the upper.As is known, a sock lining which is stitched in all around the shoeperiphery is highly desirable because it is not susceptible todisplacement and is devoid ofy edges which may curl and cause discomfortor which may impair the attractiveness of shoes having openings at thetoe or elsewhere. Moccasins'do not have a sock lining as such, but theyhave the equivalent in that the lower edge of the upper merges into andis an integral part of the bottom which directly underlies the foot ofthe wearer.

A stiff heel counter of the pre-molded type is well known to bedesirable because of itsability to lend staunchness and form-retainingqualities to the shoe, and to impart a stylish and attractive appearanceto it. rlhe beneiits of such a stiff heel counter, coupled with thebeneiits of a full-length sock lining, are achieved by means of thepresent invention without encumbering the portion beneath the heel ofthe wearer with elements or parts which may tend to impair softness andcomfort.

The procedural steps by means of which my present invention is carriedout are of a simplified character which are easy to perform,expeditious, and inexpensive, requiring no unusual skill on the part ofthe operator.

In accordance with my present invention, the heel part of the upper, orquarter, is formed of inner and cuter plies, joined together along thetop and bottoni. edges and along at least one side, the other side beingdeliberately left open so that a stiff pre-molded counter can beinserted sideways into the space between the two plies. Prior to theinsertion of the counter, the top edge of the quarter is finished in anydesired manner, and this may entail the4 use of an inturned seam, or ofa French cordingor the application of ornamentation of variousv kinds,and whatever the procedure mayA be, it isv capable of performance with,the parts in. relatively flat and soft condition, so ythatordinarysewingmachinesmay be employed if desired. Itis only as a iinal stepv in themanufacturing. procedure that the stifff counter is inserted into. thepocket and the opening of. the; pocket sealed to completeA the enclosureof thecounter within it.

The preferred man-nerr or achieving, these` general objectsandadvantages, and such other objects: and advantages as may hereinafterappear or be pointed, out, is illustratively exemplified in theaccompanying drawings in which:

Figurel is a perspectiva view of an illustrative Upper;

Figure 2 is a perspectiveA view of a countercovering element suitablefor employ-ment. with the upper shown inFigure 1;

Figure. is a perspective view showing the initial assembly of the partsshown in. Figures 1 and 2;

Figure, 41 is a View similar to Figure 3, showing the; top edgev ofthequarter andy shoe upper iinished by means of. an. illustrative Frenchcordmg;

Figurel 5 is an enlarged cross-sectional view taken substantiallyalongthe line. 5--5 of Figure-li;v

Figure 6 is a. cross-sectional View taken substantially along the; line6-6 of Figure 4;

Figure'? is a bottom View of the assembly after the sock lining has beenattached, thereto.;

Figure 8. is a fragmentary cross-sectional View taken substantiallyalong the line S-S of Figure. '7;y

Figure-.9 isa perspective view of a type-of stili heel counter whichmaybe employed;

Figurel 10 isla View similar to Figure 6, showing the heel counter inposition;

Figure 111 is aV cross-sectional viewalong the line H-H of Figure 10;`

Figure 12V is a View similar toFigure 10. showingV the counter pocketin, completed sealed condition;

Figure 13 is; a perspectivey view of the finished shoe constructed inaccordance withthe steps indicated in Figures 1,-12;

Figure 14 is a. view similar to Figurey 4, illustratingY a.modification;`

Figure 15 is a. perspective View of a modied shoeY construction,Ashowing the preliminary assembly of a sock lining andan upper composedof separated vamp and quarter;

FigureA 16 isafragmentary cross-sectional. View taken substantiallyalong the line IB-IB of Figure Figure 17 is a cross-sectional view takensubstantially along the line l'l-I of Figure 15;

Figure 18 is a perspective view of the preliminary assembly of certainparts of the upper in a shoe of modied character;

Figure 19 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially along the lineI9-i9 of Figure 18;

Figure 20 is a perspective view of the rearend 0f the finished shoeresulting from the preliminary assembly of parts shown in Figure 18;

Figure 21 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially along the line2l--2I of Figure 20 the lacing being shown in unlaced condition;

Figure 22 is a fragmentary plan view of certain parts of an upper of ashoe of modified construction, shown in a preliminary stage of assembly;

Figure 23 is a perspective view of the upper at r a further stage of itsconstruction;

Figure 24 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially along the line2li-23 of Figure 23 Figure 25 is a cross-sectional View takensubstantially along the line 25-25 of Figure 23;

Figure 26 is a view similar to Figure 25 showing the parts associatedwith the heel counter;

Figure 27 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially along the line27-2? of Figure 26, and

Figure 28 is a perspective View of the nished shoe formed as indicatedin Figures 22-27.

The article of footwear I have chosen to illustrate in Figures 1-13comprises an upper formed of two parts 3G and 3i, joined at the frontand back by seams 32 and 33, and associated at the front of the shoewith a plug part 34.

One of the initial steps in the construction of the shoe consists institching the countercovering element 35 of Figure 2 to the upperassembly shown in Figure 1. This association of parts is indicated inFigure 3.

The parts of which the upper is composed, and the element 35, may be ofany suitable material, such as leather, fabric, or other substance. Theelement 35 may assume various shapes. Ihat which is shown in the presentdrawings provides for a relatively short top edge 35, a relatively longbottom edge 31, and upwardly curving side edges 38 and 39. If desired, anotch may be cut in the element from the mid-portion of the bottom edge,and the edges of the notch stitched together, as indicated at 40, toimpart a suitably curved contour to the element 35.

In securing the part 35 to the rear part of the upper assembly shown inFigure l, stitches 4l eX- tend along the top edge, stitches 42 extendalong the bottom edge, and stitches 43 (Fig. 6) extend along one sideedge. The opposite side edge is purposely left unattached, as shown mostclearly in Figure 6.

The part 35 and the material lying beneath it constitute outer and innerplies of a two-ply quarter. It is one of the features of the inventionto finish the top edge of this quarter prior to the insertion of astiffening counter into the pocket between the two plies. Anillustrative finishing of this top edge is indicated in Figures 4. and5. A French cording 4A extends not only along the top edge of thequarter but also along the top edge of the upper all the Way to the plugelement 34 (see Fig. 13) The application of such a cording is well knownper se, and is most clearly indicated in Figure 5. It involves twostitchings, one which first secures one edge of the cording, wrong sideout, to the top edge of the upper,

and a second stitching 43 which secures the other edge of the cordingafter it has been extended around the edge which it is to cover andornament.

If desired, the stitches il of Figure 3 may be omitted, and theconnection of the two plies of the quarter may be effected by theinitial row of stitching by means of which the cording 44 is attached.Thus, while I have shown three rows of stitching in Figure 5, it will beunderstood that the middle row may be omitted, ii desired.

A further step in the assembly of the shoe is best indicated in Figures7 and 8. A full length sock llining 4l is secured along its entireperiphery, by means of stitches 48, to the entire lower edge of theupper.

Ii" desired, the stitches i2 of Figure 3 may be omitted, and the joiningof the two plies of the quarter along their bottom edges may be achievedby means of the stitches 48.

In the shoe illustrated, the construction also involves a platformwrapper 43- (see Fig. 13). The part or parts which dene this wrapper aresecured to the other parts either at the same time that the sock liningdi is stitched into position or thereafter. Thus, it is obvious that thestitches [i8 may be employed for the purpose of also securing to theassembly the element or elements 49, or, ii desired, a second line ofstitches may accomplish this purpose. In any case, since the presentinvention is not affected by the nature of the sole construction beneaththe sock lining el, the details of the platform, if any, and of theplatform wrapper and sole, etc., have not been shown, being Well knownper se.

The foregoing steps are all performed prior to lasting, and since theparts are relatively soft and can be easily maneuvered into flattenedcondition, ordinary sewing machines and procedures can be used, and nounusual skill is called for.

rlhe sequence of performing the steps thus far described is notimportant. The characterizing feature of the invention resides in thefact that, while the parts are all in soft unreinforced condition, andprior to the insertion of any stift reenforcement or counter, the twoplies of the quarter are secured together along their top and bottomedges, preferably also along one of the side edges, and are purposelyleft unattached along the opposite side edge. -also, if the top edge ofthe quarter is to be nished off or ornamented in some special manner,this is accomplished during the preliminary assembling of the variousparts as hereinbefore described.

It is at this stage that a stiff unanged premolded counter 5isubstantially of the character shown in Figure 9, is inserted sidewaysinto the space between the two plies of the quarter. After itsinsertion, as indicated in Figure l0, the open side of the pocket isstitched closed as indicated at 53 in Figure l2. This completes theenclosure of the counter within the pocket.

The assembly is then ready for application to a last (if lasting isdesired or needed), and the shoe is then completed in any appropriateand well known manner.

The finished shoe is of the character shown in Figure 13. It has aneat-appearing rigidiied heel region and a soft comfortable interior.

The procedure is carried out in exactly the same way, but with a minormodification, in connection with an upper of the kind shown in Figure14. In this case the counter-covering elee ment 35 is secured to theinside of the upper 52. As before, it is secured along its top edge,along aoco,'meY

its bottom edge, and along one side. The stitches along the side aredesignated by the numeral 53. The securement along the top edge may beaccomplished by a separate. line of stitching (not shown) or it may beeffected at the same time that the French cording 64 is applied.Similarly, the connection oi" the element 35 to the upper along thebottom edge may be achieved by a separate line of stitching or itmay` beaccomplished at the time of the attachment to the upper of the socklining, and by means of the same stitches. It is the deliberateavoidance of securing the edge t of the element Se" which provides apocket which is open at the side and which permits the insertion,sideways into it, of

a stiff unanged pre-molded counter such as that shown in Figure 9. As inthe procedure described in connection with Figures l-13, the insertionof this counter is accomplished only after the various parts of theupper, the sock lining, and the trimming of the top edge of the quarterhave been completed. After the counter has been inserted into thepocket, the pocket is stitchedl closed along the side 513, and the shoeis then ready for com pletion in accordance-with usual procedures.

Figures -17 show the applicability of'the invention to an article offootwear in which the upper is composed of two separated parts. Theforward or vamp part 55 is joined to the rear part or quarter by meansof two straps or gores or elastics 56.

In this case, the quarter is composed of inner and outer plies el and 58which are joined together along the top edge by means of an in turnedseam 59 (see Fig. 16). The plies are joined together along their bottomedges by means of stitches 66 (Fig. 16), or, if desired, this securementmay be achieved by means of the stitches El which secure the lower edgeof the upper 'to the peripheral edge of the sock lining t2.

As before, the sock lining B2 is of full length, and is stitched alongits edge to the upper along the entire extent of the lower edge of theupper.

For reasons hereinbefore given, the platform wrapper or wrappers, if thedesign of the shoe calls for them, have not been indicated in thedrawings, but it is during the preliminary assembling of the parts thatthe platform wrapper is secured in position. It may. be held in positionby means of the stitchesr 6l., or a separate line of stitching may beemployed.

The two plies of the quarter are also preferably stitched together alongone side. This is indicated by the stitches 53 in Figure l5. lfYdesired, these stitches may also serve the purpose of securing the rearend of the strap or ribbon 5t in position between the two plies 5l' andiioi the quarter.

The side edges Eli are purposely left disconnected, thus providing aside entrance into the pocket between the plies 5l and 58. After thevarious parts have been assembled in readiness tor application to alast, a stiff counter of the character hereinbefore referred to andshown in Figure 9 is inserted sideways into this pocket, and the openend of the pocket is then sealed by means of stitches t5 (Fig. 17).During the application of the stitches 65, the rear end of thecorresponding strap 56 may be engaged and secured to the rear part ofthe shoe upper.

Obviously, while the counter employed is of the pre-molded unangedcharacter, its shape will not be exactly like that shown in Figure 9,but will conform more appropriately to the shapel of the pocket which isdenedby the two plies of the quarter. Such a counter, in the positionwhich it assumes in the nished shoe, is shown at 66-in Figure 17;

The construction shown in Figures l5-l'7 is illustrative of theapplicability of the invention to a shoe in which the upper is composedof separated parts. Obviously, these parts may assume various forms, andmay be connected by ornamental means other than the straps i, orr leftcompletely disconnected.. Similarly, the top edge of the quarter may beornamented in a variety of- Ways, the important feature being that thisornamentation or finishing is accomplished during the initial assemblingof the elements and priorvto the insertion of the counter.

In Figure 18 a modied upper is shown, in which the counter-coveringelement 6l is stitched to the elements 68 and 59 along all its edges,prior to the insertion oi the counter. This attachment is indicated bythe stitches lll which join the two plies of the quarter along the topedge, by the stitches il which join these two plies along the bottomedge, and by the stitches l2 (see also Figs. 19 and 2l) along the twosides of the element tl.

As hereinbefore mentioned the stitches 'i9 along the top may bedispensed with and the connection may be established by any cording orother trimming or ornamentation which is applied to this top edge; and,similarly, the stitches 'H along the bottom may be replaced by thestitches which ultimately join the sock lining 13 (Figs. 20 and` 2l) tothe upper.

The sidewise insertion of the stili unanged premolded counter (shown at'it in Fig. 21) is accomplished through the Vertical slit 15 which isformed in the counter-covering element El'. This slit may extend onlypartly to the top and bottom edges of the element Si, as indicated inthe present drawings, or it may extend all the way to these edges. Inany case, after the parts have been connected along the top and bottomedges, a vertical slit-like opening is provided through which thecounter ld may be maneuvered in a sideward direction, being insertedfirst into one half of the pocket beneath the element (il, then into theother half.

The final enclosure of the counter 'it within the pocket is achieved sbymeans of lacing 'Et which passes through suitable openings formedaiongside of the slit l5.

As-indicated in Figure 2G, this shoe may have a platform cover il, andother elements forming parts of the outer sole construction. This partoi"A the shoe construction does not play any part in connection with thepresent invention and the `details have therefore been omitted from thedrawings. However, the platform wrapper il, as hereinbefore mentioned,is secured to the upper at the time of the securement of the sock liningi3, or immediately thereafter.

The construction of the parts in the manner shown in Figures 18-21 isparticularly useful where the upper elements 68 and |69 are joinedtogether at the rear by means of a seam which projects rearwardly andwould normally be uusightly. The element el thus fulfills a dualpurpose, viz., it covers and conceals this seam or rim, and it alsocovers and conceals the stilening counter ld. (For the sake ofsimplicity of illustration, the parts t8 and 59 have been shown ascomposed of a single piece of material, butV it is obvious that they bejoined by a seam of the character` referred to, without aiecting 7 theprocedure to which the present invention is directed.)

In Figures 22-28 I have shown a further modication of the shoe upper inwhich the quarter is composed of two plies which are integral parts of asingle element doubled upon itself. This element is designated by thevreference numeral 18, and is shown in its initially flat condition inFigure 22. When it is doubled upon itself as best shown in Figure 24, itdefines inner and outer plies 79 and 89. These plies are obviouslyjoined together along their top edges, since they are parts of a singleelement, the fold line 8| lying along the top edge. For ornamentationpurposes, a line of stitching B2 may be provided along this top edge, toform a bead-like iinish which is attractive.

The plies i9 and Si! are joined along their bottom edges by a line ofstitches 83, but, as hereinbefore mentioned, this line of stitches maybe dispensed and the connection along the bottom edge may be effected bythe same stitches which connect the lower edge of the upper to theperipheral edge of the sock lining 84 (Figs. 26-28).

The upper of the shoe, forwardly of the twoply quarter, may be composedin part of elements 85 and 86. 'While l have shown these elements asextending for the full length of the shoe, and joined together at thefront, it will be understood that this particular construction is notessential. It will also be understood that any desired plug element, orother suitable vamp construction, may be employed without affecting theprocedure to which the present invention is primarily directed.

In assembling the elements, the rear edges of the parts 85 and 86 arerst stitched, as at 87 and B3, to the side edges of the inner ply Sli.In performing this step, the quarter element 78 is laid at as indicatedin Figure 22, wrong side up, and the parts S and 86 are stitched theretoas indicated. The element 18 is then doubled upon itself to denne thetwo plies 19 and and thereupon the assembly is completed in everyrespect except that one side 89 of the quarter is left disconnected. Inthe present drawings, I have shown one side of the outer ply 79disconnected in Figures 23 and 25, but, obviously, if the parts 85 and86 are first stitched to the outer ply 79 (instead of to the ply 99 asshown in Fig. 22), the deliberately disconnected side edge may ifdesired be formed on the inner ply 89.

During the assembling procedure, the sock lining Sri is secured to theupper, and if a platform wrapper is to enter into the finishedconstruction, as indicated at Si) in Figure 28, it is at this stage ofthe procedure that it is stitched to the lower edge of the upper. Also,if the upper edge of the quarter is to be finished or ornamented in anyway other than the application of the stitches 82, such finishing orornamentation is accomplished at this time.

It is only then that a stiif unanged pre-molded counter is insertedsideways into the pocket between the plies i9 and 99, and the pocketsealed by means of the stitches 92. The stitches 93 at the opposite sideof the pocket are made during the preliminary assembly hereinbeforementicned.

The advantages of a quarter composed of a single element doubled uponitself, as shown in Figures .2E-2S, include the fact that only onecutting of material is necessary, no allowances need to be made forscanning, and the result is neater 8 and richer looking, devoid of heavyunattractive seams.

In each of the constructions illustrated, I achieved in a simple mannerthe conjoint advantages of a sock lining which is of full length andwhich is secured throughout the extent of the lower edge of the upper,the presence of a stiff pre-molded counter in the heel region of theshoe, and a complete absence of any separate tab or heel piece on theinside, covering an unsightly or uncomfortable fiange which wouldnormally underlie the heel of the foot, if a iianged counter of ordinarycharacter were employed.

Where the invention is applied to l.so-called soft sole slippers, inwhich the assembly of the parts, including the inner sole or socklining, is nished before lasting, the procedure remains the same inrespect to the fact that a stiff counter is inserted as one of the nalsteps before the assembly is applied to a last. After insertion of thecounter, the open side through which it was inserted is stitched closed,and the assembly is then applied to the last for completion of the shoe.

- The advantages of the invention may be enjoyed in connection with ashoe of the inoccasin type by stitching the counter-covering element tothe rear part of the upper (either on the outside or on the inside)along the top edge, the bottom edge, and one side edge, leaving theother side purposely disconnected. This provides a pocket which is openat the side and into which the stiff unlanged counter may be inserted ina sidewise direction, the opening of the pocket being thereupon sealed.

Obviously, those skilled in the art may readily make changes in many ofthe details herein described and illustrated, without necessarilydeparting from the spirit and scope of the invention as expressed in theappended claim.

Having thus described my invention and illustrated its use, what I claimas new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

Those steps in the manufacture of a shoe or slipper having a full-lengthstitched-in sock lining, a platform sole and Wrapper and acounterstiffened quarter, which comprise: stitching a sock lining alongits entire periphery to the lower edge of an upper providing a platformwrapper on said upper, stitching a counter-covering element to the upperbut only along its bottom and top edges and along one side so as to forma pocket which is open along the unattached side, inserting a relativelystiif unflanged pre-molded counter sideways into said pocket, thenstitching the unattached side of the counter-covering element to theupper to seal said counter within said pocket, and then force lastingthe assembly and completing the sole structure of the shoe.

JACK MELTZER References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATESPATENTS Number Name Date 876,473 Mitchell Jan. 14, 1998 1,515,198 GormanNov. il, 1924 2,393,989 Kamborian Feb. 5, 1946 2,447,590 Meltzer Aug.24, 1948 2,493,497 Meltzer Jan. 3, 1950 2,552,638 Meltzer May 15, 19512,580,037 Meltzer Dec. 25, i951 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date241.397 Switzerland July 16, 1946

